#33961 - 02/29/04 12:46 AM
Re: Need a Kill Switch
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yomuppet
Poster
Registered: 11/26/03
Posts: 228
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I dunno (I don't think so) but if you did it wrong, just tear it up and do it right... then you'll know for sure 
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#33970 - 03/03/04 07:26 PM
Re: Need a Kill Switch
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DXorsist77
Jr Member
Registered: 12/18/02
Posts: 516
Loc: Columbia,SC,USA,North America,...
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Quote:
Me neither. Car is almost fixed back to how it was, with minor stereo and alarm upgrades, rather than having all my goodies stolen and getting paid for a stock car, thanks to the switch. It's not much consolation, but it's something.
If the post I started helped at least one person out there(sobs), it was worth it. 
For real tho, i'm glad it help u out yomuppet.
_________________________
"All I have in this world is my balls, and my word, and I don't break 'em for no one, jou understand?"
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#33971 - 03/12/04 10:02 AM
Re: Need a Kill Switch
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ORcivicsi
Newbie
Registered: 03/11/04
Posts: 12
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Good post
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#33974 - 03/15/04 12:30 AM
Re: Need a Kill Switch
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yomuppet
Poster
Registered: 11/26/03
Posts: 228
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Quote:
why don't you just buy an alarm. There is an alarm that when ARMed you cannot start the car, and if someone tries to hot wire your car or use a different honda key (this has happened to me) while ARMed it will kill the starter and you would have to reset your computer by unplugging your battery to reset computer.
So it makes it to where you have to disarm the alarm in order to start your car. It is really cool and it works, my buddy has it on his prelude.
Though this may or may not help, any additional security measures can only help further.
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#33977 - 04/28/04 06:39 PM
Re: Need a Kill Switch
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yomuppet
Poster
Registered: 11/26/03
Posts: 228
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Say I want to have another break in the fuel pump circuit in another location for multiple levels of security, what would be the best way to do this? Do I need another setup complete with switches, can I just add another 2 relay (dpdt + auto) setup to the circuit, or can I get away with adding just 1 auto relay? Thanks in advance
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#33978 - 05/03/04 12:31 PM
Re: Need a Kill Switch
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sxng9
Newbie
Registered: 01/10/04
Posts: 65
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i did this one this morning and tested it. the only problem in the chattering sound and it's not very reliable. would buying a different brand, other than radio shack work?
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#33980 - 05/03/04 11:28 PM
Re: Need a Kill Switch
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sxng9
Newbie
Registered: 01/10/04
Posts: 65
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Quote:
What do you mean it's not reliable? My reed is very reliable. Did you mean your relay? Something else? Please explain.
sorry about my post earlier. i didn't have time to elaborate because i had to head off to work, but anyway...
before i start explaining, i'd like to say that it has not been installed in the car yet, because i wanted to test it out. i hooked everything up and soldered the wires where needed and tested the circuit in my room. everything looks good and works okay and i bought all the parts from RadioShack.
when power is first supplied to the circuit, the LED goes on. well when i slide the magnet over the reed, the LED light goes off when the magnet is closeby (which it is supposed to), then as i move the magnet away, the LED light comes back on (not the way it suppose to be. the LED light should remain off, as the only way it suppose to come back on, is if i push the push button).
everytime the LED light goes on or off, you can hear the 10A plug-in relay clicking inside. this let you know that it is working, and you can visually see the metal connector inside the relay moving, so i know that the 10A relay is working.
one solution i found to work, is if i don't slide the magnet over the entire reed, but to just point and pull away at only one end of the reed with the magnet. by that i meant putting a magnet close to one end of the reed (the black part of the reed, with the 3 metal connectors coming out of them) in just that one area.
if i slide the magnet near the other end of the reed (the black part of the reed, with just one metal connector; that's the one that needs to be grouned), then the 10A relay will just keep clicking for as long as the magnet is over it.
another weird thing is that if the LED light is already off and sliding a magnet over that particular end of the reed (the one with just one metal connector, like i said before), then it will turn the LED light back on, so in essence, the reed can do both work, and that would defeat the purpose of having a push button to re-arm or disconnect the fuel pump wire. that's what i meant by reliability. you don't want to accidentally disconnect the fuel pump wire when you're trying to re-connect it.
---
besides this, i was wondering if there is a way to wrig up something similar to this wirelessly. i was thinking of using IR or radio. i like the idea of installing a kill switch, without running a set of wires from the back of the car to the front, thus making it even harder for thieves to trace the wires.
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#33982 - 05/03/04 11:57 PM
Re: Need a Kill Switch
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danielsmith
Jr Poster
Registered: 06/19/03
Posts: 182
Loc: San Diego, CA
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if it's set up properly... there shouldn't be a chatter sound. you've probably crossed some wires some where along the line. if you hookup the NC side of the relay up to the power, it can engage/disengage really fast... causing that sound.
DS
_________________________
'92 Honda Accord - AEM CAI, Tenzo Springs -- WTB: Stock 92-93 Accord Hub Caps (she's going back to stock)
'00 Civic Si - Greddy EVO Exhaust, 17" OZ Superleggeras, TEIN Springs. (DC Intake for sale.. pm me)
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#33983 - 05/04/04 10:18 PM
Re: Need a Kill Switch
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sxng9
Newbie
Registered: 01/10/04
Posts: 65
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i know you guys are probably tired of me asking this question, but i went back to radioshack and re-bought all of the parts and redone this kill switch cleanly. i know that i didn't cross any wires at all in the installation. when i hover the magnet over the reed, the LED lights goes off and when i pull the magnet away from the reed, the LED comes back on. WTF??
i checked all of the wires and i don't see a problem at all. i've even tested the Automotive relay (connectors: 30 & 87) on a simple 12V light bulb, and it works when the LED is off. all wires have been soldered. i've redrew the same schematic, according to how i hooked everything up here:
now here are some pictures of the individual parts i put together using my webcam:
the reed (front / top):
the reed (back):
the momentary pushbutton:
some pictures of the Automotive relay with the DPDT relay:
okay. i narrowed down the probem to the reed. i switched my new reed, back to the old one and it still has problems.
***edit
i'm using a normally open reed and i think that the metal connectors inside the reed does not stay closed when a magnet passes over it.
Edited by sxng9 (05/06/04 12:25 AM)
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#33985 - 05/06/04 01:23 AM
Re: Need a Kill Switch
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sxng9
Newbie
Registered: 01/10/04
Posts: 65
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whoops. i meant normally open. it was really late when i typed it up, but anyhow, i'm gonna give this one more try, then call it quits and go with a regular kill switch. i've wasted too much money and time on this project, but it was fun. i burned myself a few times with the solder and cut myself a few times with razor blades.
yes, razor blades. i was working on a different car security project prior to this one and it involves lethal, but not deadly razors. lol, i guess i'm paranoid, because i live in the ghetto (that's what my friends call the area where i live). anyhow. i've attached double sided razor blades (the ones that you can buy at your local Walmart store) to the underside of the doorhandles, so that the theif, or would be theif, would cut himself. yea, i got two deep razor cuts on my fingers from forgetting that i have razor blades underneath the doorhandles - lol.
i've also started to mod the air vents to shoot out razors when the ignition is on, but didn't quite get it to work perfectly, mainly due to the part that i've already cut myself twice, and because i might accidently hurt someone i care about. in the first case, i used rubber bands to propel the blades; not reliable, and doesn't shoot straight. the second case involves modifying my paintball gun to use airtight hoses to shoot out the blades; too fast & deadly, plus it will ruin the seats.
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#33987 - 05/06/04 11:59 AM
Re: Need a Kill Switch
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yomuppet
Poster
Registered: 11/26/03
Posts: 228
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Quote:
Well, I want to get this kill switch installed within the next 2 weeks and before I go out to buy this stuff, I wanted to know if anyone can pm me the "step-by-step" to this. I think I know what to do but wanna make sure. Also I'm in nyc and would like to know where can I pick this stuff up (besides radioshack). Thanks guys/gals.
It's all in THIS thread. Want me to PM you with the url to this thread? Sigh.
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#33991 - 05/06/04 07:44 PM
Re: Need a Kill Switch
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sxng9
Newbie
Registered: 01/10/04
Posts: 65
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Quote:
sxng9, your setup looks WAY more professional than mine, you must just be having a simple problem in the way it is wired. My setup used much more electrical tape, and much less heat shrink tubing, loom, circuit board, and any of that other cool looking stuff you used. I can tell you from personal experience that this setup is worth it, and if you spent anything less than a hundred bucks or so then I wouldn't worry. Mine has cost me about 20-40, and that's after having to redo it due to a theft attempt. The first time I set it up it was around 20. Have you tried turning the magnet around the other way and putting it close to the reed? Have you made sure whatever you're using as a ground source is actually grounded?
yea, haha. i guess i am sorted impressed about this kill switch project. i spent a lot of time on this. i'm pretty good with electronic things, so i know that's it's not anything electrical. like i said in my previous post, the main problem is the reed.
there are 2 factors that contribute to the problems with the reed i bought at Radio Shack:
1) the polarity of the magnetic side on which you use to slide over the reed.
2) the glass tube inside of the blue casing, needs to be adjusted.
i'm trying to push myself to get this finished before i go on vacation in July, but if i don't, hell with it. oh, also, one of the funniest thing i did the past 2 days was i went to every single radio shack store where i lived and bought every single reed they had, due to breaking so many reeds.
Quote:
Well, I wasn't sure of the proper guage of wires to use (someone above mentioned 14 but wanted to make sure) and which way the dual color led is hooked up (so that it lights green when the reed is closed and not red when the reed is closed). Also, just wanted to know where I can get better quality parts besides from radioshack. Well, if it was too much to ask, then it 's alright, I'll manage.
as for the proper wire guage, 14 is good enough. for my project, i used 14 and i think i used 16 for the circuit board & around where im running wires that are less than 5 inches long.
the thing is, don't make it sound more complicated than it really is, and always be sure to test it out on a bench to make sure it works the way you want it, before you rip the car interior apart and drilling holes.
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#33993 - 05/06/04 11:52 PM
Re: Need a Kill Switch
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sxng9
Newbie
Registered: 01/10/04
Posts: 65
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i have just one final question on this topic:
which wire do you guys tap into to get the 12V constant power at (even when the engine is off)? i prefer to tap, or splice into a wire from inside the car, rather than directly from the battery in the engine bay. thanks.
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Moderator: Dr. BrokenLimits, Professor Paki
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Compliments of another shitty driver in nyc. Thank you so much Mr. Mofo!
But give me a few minutes and I'll see if I can figure out your problem (or offer a solution) 
