#33893 - 10/15/03 08:17 AM
Re: Need a Kill Switch
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jjtackleberry
Jr Member
Registered: 03/21/02
Posts: 446
Loc: KS
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What other kind of kill switch could you put in?
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#33895 - 10/15/03 10:54 AM
Re: Need a Kill Switch
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jjtackleberry
Jr Member
Registered: 03/21/02
Posts: 446
Loc: KS
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Can some post a "how-to" on the fuel cut off, and or a starter cut off. PICS would be very helpful.
Thanks ahead of time.
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#33896 - 10/15/03 11:20 AM
Re: Need a Kill Switch
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Ziggles
Jr Member
Registered: 09/18/03
Posts: 402
Loc: Santa Barbara, CA
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i have to go to class in a few minutes...but here's a bit of info:
next to the driver seat, to the left, running along the floor are a bunch of wires (they are under the paneling). Most of these wires are encased in a 3-4 foot sheath. Some of the wires run all the way to the middle of the chassis, so they are in black "tubing" stuff. To make a killswitch that cuts off the fuel pump, you need to look for the YELLOW wire, with the GREEN stripe. Now, take your average, run of the mill switch (whether you like flip switch, or push switch, doesn't matter) and wire it to the yellow/green wire. It's been awhile since i've done this, and we were working on a 2000 civic; but the whole thing works perfectly now. I'll see if i can get my friend to post up pics of the general process. His car is somewhat stripped and so it would be pretty easy, but no promises (he's a bit secretive, for good reason, about this stuff).
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-Ziggles
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#33897 - 10/15/03 01:42 PM
fuel kill switch
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gatherer
Newbie
Registered: 10/10/03
Posts: 3
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problem with a push button is if it's a momentary push button as soon as you release the button the fuel pump will stop. a STSP switch is the best to get.
wiring it up is simple cut the yellow wire with the green strip going to the fuel pump and connect one end to one terminal of the switch and the other end to the other terminal.
stuff you need to watch out for:
1) the yellow wire not being long enough to place the switch where you want (solution solder extension wires to it)
2) the switch has 3 terminals (solution solder one wire to the middle terminal and the other wire to one of the (and only one) outter terminals. )
3) the switch has 4 or 6 terminals (buy a simplier switch)
anyways the install is about an hour (including time to let the soldering iron heat up). PM me if you want help with it.
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#33898 - 10/15/03 04:28 PM
Re: Need a Kill Switch
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TranZenD si 209
Major Member
Registered: 04/03/00
Posts: 1473
Loc: Stockton, CA
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kill starter doesnt do much, if someone can get into your car, and if your car is a stick, all they can do it push start it and it starts right up. invest in the club for the steering wheel and the one for the pedel.
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#33899 - 10/15/03 05:08 PM
Re: Need a Kill Switch
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DXorsist77
Jr Member
Registered: 12/18/02
Posts: 516
Loc: Columbia,SC,USA,North America,...
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Quote:
kill starter doesnt do much, if someone can get into your car, and if your car is a stick, all they can do it push start it and it starts right up. invest in the club for the steering wheel and the one for the pedel.
Damn, for real? Well i figure a kill switch and an alarm should do. If not, then the fucker who steals my car wins.
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"All I have in this world is my balls, and my word, and I don't break 'em for no one, jou understand?"
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#33902 - 10/16/03 06:27 AM
Re: Need a Kill Switch
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DXorsist77
Jr Member
Registered: 12/18/02
Posts: 516
Loc: Columbia,SC,USA,North America,...
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Quote:
yeah is all great but d tricky part is wer to put it ,what a guy i no did was he put a dummie switch in d glove box to throw them out for a loop but where u put it is main thing
what i was thinking of, is putting one in d cigaret lighter i had my car for 11/2 and never use it so cut a little from d top of d casing with a dramell just enough were u can switch it with one finger and sand it to take d rough edges off ,than a hard adhesive to put it in place or tie wraps d small kind i will need a bigger gauge wire do since i got to take d voltage resistance into account but ill let u no how it goes...is just an experiment so i will do it in a dummie lighter first that pick at a junk yard 
let me know how it turns out. Get some pics if u can. Thanx
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"All I have in this world is my balls, and my word, and I don't break 'em for no one, jou understand?"
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#33904 - 10/18/03 01:06 PM
Re: Need a Kill Switch
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jjtackleberry
Jr Member
Registered: 03/21/02
Posts: 446
Loc: KS
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Lets see some pics, NOT of the switch location, but the wiring install
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only if you get caught........
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#33907 - 10/20/03 08:28 AM
Re: Need a Kill Switch
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jjtackleberry
Jr Member
Registered: 03/21/02
Posts: 446
Loc: KS
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...and I'll forth it.......
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#33908 - 10/20/03 09:18 PM
Re: Need a Kill Switch
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Air_Siren_Si
Jr Member
Registered: 03/23/03
Posts: 468
Loc: Denver, CO
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Ok, here is what I did for fuel cutoff. I refered to page 11-236 in the helms manual, this if for a 96-00 civic.
I removed the backseat, upper and lower parts. I also removed the drivers side rear panel to run my wires to the switch. You will see an large aluminum oval dead center, the fuel pump is under this. You can take off the aluminum cover (4 screws), but there really is no need to. I just took the electrical tape leaving the cover off and pulled the wires out. Find the Yellow wire with a green stripe, it is one of the larger ones. Cut your wire and you will be sending each end of that to a switch. Use 16 or 18 guage wire leading to your switch. A relay can also be used, also optional, but i didn't use one.
I hid the switch in my trunk. But that is because my trunk was modded for only remote pop. You can put the switch anywhere, you can even have two switches for extra security. I prefer tapping the wires strait off the fuel pump, because ECU tapping is easier for a theif to work around. They aren't going to be taking out your back seats, at least i don't think so. Let me know if you need more help with this.
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#33910 - 10/21/03 12:01 AM
Re: Need a Kill Switch
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braintree
Sr Member
Registered: 08/14/01
Posts: 1176
Loc: chicago
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Here you go, this was a post I did on another board(you can ignore part one, I just cut and pasted everything).
Part 1
So last week, I was able to get a set of autometer boost and a/f gauges from AWD 4G63 (thanks again)
Since it was a nice weekend, I decided to make a gauge holder for them. With the gauges in hand, I chose to throw them in the compartment near the cup holders. So I took out the cup holders and went on a quest for ABS plastic.
After hours of searching the south burbs for plastic, I found none. Everyshop I talked to had to order it. So sad and beaten, I stop by my dad’s shop and then it had shown itself. In the back was a discarded chevy cavalier front-end. I looked around and found the fender moldings. So bare-handed, I ripped them out and cut them to shape. Then I riveted them to the cup-holders and the DIY was near completion.
Once the molding was in place, I cut somes holes in them, put the gauges in and threw the bad-boy back in the car.
All in all, $2 for extra wires + $2 for connectors + $0 for cavalier molding =
Part 2
Well, being the loser that I am with mucho free time; my weekend was not done yet. So I decided to make a fuel-cutoff switch. With that in mind, I headed back to Radio shack and picked up a rocker switch.
Then I found my fuel pump power wire
and made a slice. With some male and female connectors, I attached it to some wires and ran it to my hidden switch.
So for that DIY, $4 for the rocker switch + $2 for wires + $1.50 for male/female connectors = a $7.50 security system that rivals many high-tech ones. With the hidden switch in the off position, no power to the fuel pump = no fuel to the engine = no moving for the car.
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#33912 - 10/23/03 09:29 AM
Re: Need a Kill Switch
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civicgeek9
Jr Member
Registered: 11/10/02
Posts: 559
Loc: Dallas/Ft.Worth, Texas
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And even better solution than that just listed above is this setup here ....
It will cost you about 20 bucks for all the materials, and there is no "hidden" switch like in the one above.
The switch to enable the circuit is a magnetic reed switch, so unless this thief happens to be carrying a magnet on him, forget it. If he could even find where the switch is located. It can be virtually anywhere on your car. If they were to know where it was, it could be bypassed without a magnet, but would still be a lot more difficult than the above description. You would have to know what wires did waht considering you would ahve 4 to work with. As a matter of fact, because of the way the reed switch works, I'm not sure if there is an easy bypass. I will have to investigate more.
The cutout described above is just a simple toggle switch, very easy to find, and very easy to bypass. 
Very nice design and works great. I installed it a couple weeks ago and it's da shit! Between this and my Alarm, I feel much safer about my car being stolen whilst I'm at the movies, mall, etc...
Good Luck!
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#33916 - 10/24/03 09:14 AM
Re: Need a Kill Switch
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civicgeek9
Jr Member
Registered: 11/10/02
Posts: 559
Loc: Dallas/Ft.Worth, Texas
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Okay here ya go for the magnet style relay cutout. Some more details and information....
You will need the parts listed of course.
Get the Heavy duty auto relay, a must have for making that connection into your fuel pump. It's a high current/high voltage application, and can handle the amperage running thru it for prolonged periods of time. Which is something you will want when wiring into your fuel pump's power line.
For the DPDT relay, the relays i was able to find at Radio Shack where like 10V only. You need a 12V DPDT. At least that. And the reed switches at radio shack work, but are very low amperage as well. I'm still trying to locate better ones to use. Fry's was out of stock when I was there last. But they do have nice DPDT relays @ 12V and like 10Amps, perfect for this application.
Cars run 12V (duh!) and about 6-9 amps of current normally. Dependind on device being powered. So you need devices that can handle these currents. Now the reed switch will only be a temporary passage of power, so it's okay if it's amperage is lower, but there is a downside.
Sometimes, the circuit doesn't want to set when you first pass the magnet over it. You will hear the DPDT relay chatter, trying to go into the set or locked state so you can drive. It's not that bad of a setback. I wired it up anyways. It just takes a few passes of the magnet sometimes to get it to lock. But most of the time it works first try.
So you might want to try higher voltage and amperage DPDT relays and reed switches. until you can find one that works better. I don't mind if it gives me problems every now and again, I can deal for now until I get a larger reed, which I believe is what is causing it. Cause If i played with the circuit w/o the reed, it worked every single time with no chatter.
The schematic is so-so at best on that diagram. But it's actually quite simple. Just make sure you SOLDER ALL CONNECTIONS!! You don't want shit coming loose or touching and blowing something up. I am working ona better pic to post for all of you. It will make wiring that circuit much easier for those that aren't electrical engineers when they go to work. I got lucky, i know this shit, so it was quite easy for me.
I used my center console for mounting of a lot of the pieces, and then ran wires to my reed switch location. Then put the auto relay under the seat, try to use 6 inches at most, for the connections that you splice into your FP power line that will pass thru the relays input and output. Again, you don't want to loose voltage or amperage running into your FP motor.
I will post a schematic later after I get it finished for all those interested.
Materials can all be purchased at yoru local Fry's or other electronics store. Again, the shit available at Radio Shack isn't all the best. I think i used the Auto relays and reed switches I got from there, and that's about it. But I'm still looking for better reeds before I install this same shit into a friends car.
As for "doubling up" the circuit, this is possible, anyone want to take a crack at designing a circuit for this guy? I find that the one in that link and that i used is definitly enough for me. I mean, w/o fuel, you're fucked. The car can and will sometiems start, but die in about 30-60 secs at most. And if you're driving and it accidently trips, which mine has only done once in 3 weeks, you simply pull over and reset teh circuit. It helps to have another magnet hidden in the car and easier to get to than tha one on your keys.
Like anyone is going to know WTF that magnet is for stuck to the bottom of your seat!?!?!
If anyone is really interested in having one of these and not wanting to take the time to make it and all that. I am accepting $50 via paypal to make them for you. Materials cost me 20 bucks and then 20 bucks for my time and effort to make you a harness and 10 bucks for Fed Ex/UPS shipment.
PM me for more details. But please, I am still searching, so it may take me a couple weeks. Once I have located all the parts in a better stock, I can make them much faster and more of them. Right now I have only been able to scrounge up anough shit to make 2 more.
Prolly going to have to order the shit in bulk from somewhere. 
_________________________
"Well for my next car there's no way I would buy another Honda, I want an Acura RSX."
Buy My Stuff!
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#33917 - 10/24/03 10:44 AM
Re: Need a Kill Switch
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civicgeek9
Jr Member
Registered: 11/10/02
Posts: 559
Loc: Dallas/Ft.Worth, Texas
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#33919 - 11/08/03 06:26 PM
Re: Need a Kill Switch
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KneeGrow
Post Master Supreme
Registered: 02/04/03
Posts: 10719
Loc: San Francisco, CA
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I used these instructions to make my fuel cut-off switch. http://www.courtlukens.com/cutoff_switch.htm
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